The auto bloc is a friction hitch used to back up your break hand in a rappel or lowering scenario. It is the simplest friction hitch to tie.

Appropriate Uses rock climbing and canyoneering:

• Rappel break hand backup
• Lowering break hand backup

Advantages

• Easy to attachment to rope

Specifications

• 4 ft loop of 6mm nylon cord
• tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s knot
• Softer cord will grab the rope best

Here are the steps to tie the Auto Bloc:

-clip the prusik loop into a locking carabiner

-wrap the loop 3 times (for two ropes) up the rope (4 times for a single rope)

-clip the end of the loop back into the carabiner

*Always test friction hitches before using them. Never have any life support system rely on a single friction hitch